24 Hours In

Tokyo by night, as taken from Tokyo Tower

Tokyo is a city of many contrasts. Nowhere else will you find a city literally bursting at the seams with modern technology that sits neatly side by side with a culture that can sometimes seem stuck in the past. Hordes of suited ‘sarari-man’ (office workers) stand next to sleeping grandparents and punks without a cause on the peak hour trains in the morning. And even though to some it may seem like a city addicted to an unquenchable thirst for energy and mayhem, digging just a little will reveal beautiful temples, shrines and bonsais manicured to perfection. Tokyo is overwhelming in the best way possible, and with only twenty-four hours to go, you’ll want to get ready to adopt some of that energy and spirit that keeps the sprawling utopia going strong.

We start our day early by making a trip to Tsukiji Seafood Markets, the place to go for the freshest sushi and sashimi in the city. Take the Oedo line to Tsukijishijo station and follow the signs to the market. Get there around 6am to witness crate upon crate of fresh fish being auctioned off to the highest bidder, but be careful not to get run over by forklifts and carts coming from every direction. After the auction, wander the markets for a while and head towards the outer edges of the market to sample some traditional Japanese cuisine at one of the many sushi stalls.

When you’ve doubled your body weight with one of the healthiest breakfasts around, head over to Asakusa and explore one of the older sides to Tokyo. Head on the Oedo line to Daimon station, then switch to the Asakusa line to get to Asakusa station. Wander down the street leading off Azuma bridge to take in some of the slower side of Tokyo before reaching Kaminari-mon gate, the impressive opening to a trail of cultural stalls leading to Asakusa Kannon Temple, also known as Sensoji.

Enjoy the peace while you can, because after slowing down in Asakusa, we’re going to jump right to the other end of the spectrum in Akihabara, Tokyo’s technology hub. On the Yamanote line that snakes its way through the major suburbs in the city, Akihabara is loud, in your face and sickeningly commercial, but oh so cheap when it comes to anything electronic. If you haven’t already, you’ll become familiar with the phrase Irasshai mase (lit: May I help you?) yelled from staff wielding megaphones at every turn, but you’ll be rewarded by healthy discounts on digital cameras, MP3 players, audio recorders and other personal electronics, depending on exchange rates. Just make sure that adaptors and manuals can be obtained in English on you return home, and that any purchases are declared to Customs if required by your home country’s law.

As it approaches lunch time, head from Akihabara station to Kanda station, and change to the Tokyo Metro Ginza line to Ginza, Tokyo’s self-confessed home of high style and fashion, with the streets littered with outlets for international designer labels, alongside small galleries and Parisian-styled cafes. Head to the Sony Building for a sample of the technology giant’s upcoming innovations, and then sample some of the best Japanese and international photography at the Leica Gallery Ginza.

From one budget to another, and a short subway ride takes us to Shibuya, made famous for the crossing just outside Shibuya station that every visitor to the city should tackle at least once. When the green man appears, prepare yourself for an onslaught of people from every direction, made infinitely more dangerous when umbrellas are involved. Try and find a window seat in Starbucks to get a good photo of the madness of the crossing, and spend some time exploring the dizzying array of department stores and smaller chain stores. Head to LOFT or Tokyu Hands for novelty gifts to take home, and if T-shirts sporting funky designs are your thing, head to Graniph, but watch the sizes, as Japanese clothing tends to be a little smaller than common Western brands.

A pathway in Yoyogi Park on the way to Meiji shrine

Harajuku is the next destination on our whirlwind tour of Tokyo, the suburb made famous by Gwen Stefani who penned a song about the Japanese teenagers who dress up in all manner of intricately designed clothes to imitate their manga heroes. Check them out on a Sunday afternoon and then wander across the bridge next to the station to Yoyogi Park,an enormous forest surrounding the Meiji Shrine. Walking towards the shrine, finished in 1920 and housing the souls of Emperor Meiji and his wife, you start to notice the things that are missing. Traffic noise, the summer heat, huge crowds, all replaced by the simple beauty of the park and the shrine. Be sure to spend a few moments taking the serenity in, and read over the prayer boards in the main shrine garden for some words of wisdom before leaving your own.

As the afternoon turns into evening, head to Shinjuku station and on arrival, take a five-minute walk to the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Towers. Open till 11pm and with free admission, the towers provide the perfect vantage point for photos over the city, especially as dusk comes and the city of skyscrapers turns into the city of lights. When you’ve got a few good shots, head towards Koshu-Kaido Ave and then walk back towards Shinjuku station. After a short walk, keep an eye out on the other side of the road for a small Indian restaurant with Curry and Naan on the sign in English. Small but with attentive staff, pick a couple of curries to have with a naan bread and a mango beer on the side, and you’ve got a simple, but powerfully flavorsome meal.

New York Bar @ Park Hyatt Tokyo

Only a short walk away from dinner is one of the classiest nightspots in Tokyo, the New York Bar, sitting 52 floors above Tokyo in the Park Hyatt Hotel complex. Made famous by Sophia Coppolla’s Lost in Translation, this is the bar that Bill Murray and Scarlett Johansson made eyes across the room at, and although they may have left, the views from the window tables are still as good, if not better, than in the film. Be prepared for a big spend here (the cover charge on most nights is around $25, with drinks going for about the same) but it’s worth it to sample the luxurious surroundings, panoramic views and smooth jazz sounds from the live band that plays each night. Staff ensure that you’re treated like a Hollywood star, and after a couple of hours, you start to believe it.

From then on, the night is yours. If you thought Tokyo by day was busy, Tokyo by night is just as energetic. Head back to Shibuya for late night shopping and partying, or to Roppongi, where the expats party till the sun starts to creep back over the city. When you feel like its time to hit the sack, there are different accommodation options to suit every budget. Try websites such as Asia Rooms and Rakuten Travel for rooms and discounted rates, and if you don’t want a musty room, be sure to choose the non-smoking option.

In the end, try and fit in as much as you can, but don’t rush it, because there’s a guarantee you’ll be back for more. The frenetic pace, the mind-boggling size, the noise- it can sometimes leave you feeling a bit overwhelmed, but you’ve just got to know where to look. This is exactly what Tokyo is known for; amongst bustling streets, towering skyscrapers and endless noise, there are still spots of simple beauty, tradition and timeless culture.

See some of Andrew’s photos from his recent trip to Japan


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