24 Hours In

The city of Edinburgh, looking from Calton Hill

Can’t make it to Edinburgh for the Fringe Festival or New Year’s Eve? Well no matter, here is the ultimate 24 hour guide to avoiding the tourist traps and getting the most out of Scotland’s capital, no matter what time of year it is!

So you’ve landed at Edinburgh Airport and you’re ready to go. First thing to do is jump on the airport-to-city shuttle bus (every 10 mins) which takes about half an hour. If you’re arriving by train (Waverly Station) or bus (St. Andrews Bus Station) then you’re already in the city centre. Grab a free map from the nearby tourist information centre and start your adventure.

The city’s main drag, Princes Street, is a mess at the moment thanks to the construction of the new tram service (due to finish around 2011), but Princes Street Gardens are still a must see, especially on a rare sunny day, when it fills up with pale, sun starved Scottish folks, all desperate for a ‘wee bit a sun’.

The best place to stay is the Old Town, right in the thick of it. If you haven’t already booked a hostel, (or discovered the wonders of couchsurfing) then gravitate towards the big castle on the hill, you can’t miss it. Sitting right underneath it, Castle Rock Hostel has probably the best view of Edinburgh’s most famous site as you’re likely to get.

Another good option is Budget Backpackers. It too has castle views and colourful rooms, tucked in amongst the Old Town buildings between the Cowgate and the Grassmarket (more on those later). Both hostels are super value, but beware Edinburgh Festival time, as prices per night double.

For free internet access, try the central library on George IV Bridge. Otherwise expect to pay around two pounds an hour.

Edinburgh’s great advantage over other cities is most things are within walking distance (or a short bus trip; ask for a day-ticket when you get on). Everything is built on top of something else, and in fact, a few centuries back Edinburgh was one of Europe’s most densely populated cities. The rich lived on the upper floors and the high streets, while the poor existed in the gutters, alleys and underground rooms that still litter the city.

To truly discover Edinburgh’s past, make your way below ground to see how the under classes lived at the ‘Real Mary King’s Close’ on the Royal Mile, but beware; it’s dark, constricted and a wee bit frightenin’…

My tip is, don’t bother going into the castle. This might sound like heresy, but it is super touristy, and you can appreciate it just as well from outside, and save yourself 13 pounds. Better to wander down the Royal Mile from the castle, venturing down its steep staircases and hidden side alleys, soaking up the atmosphere. At the bottom you’ll arrive at the garish-looking Scottish Parliament and Holyrood Palace, the Queens Scottish residence.

After this, it’s time for an invigorating walk up Calton Hill, or better yet Arthur’s Seat (the huge hill in the middle of the city). Both have spectacular views, and are well worth the effort. Best do this before lunch, as you’ll be starving afterwards, and because Edinburgh’s sunny mornings are known to go all grey and miserable around midday. The Meadows, a huge grassy park near Edinburgh University is also great when the weather’s favourable, when it fills with students and young locals, playing ball games, reading or enjoying a drink with friends in the sun.

The best way to fend off the weather is to spend the afternoon visiting the shops of Edinburgh or taking in a quiet drink/movie/laugh. For more on this, click here.

It’s been a big day and you’re no doubt starving, but never fear, there is loads of good food around town. As this is Scotland, you can’t visit without trying some local delicacies. For the infamous haggis, it’s got to be Greyfriar’s Bobby’s Bar, where it’s served with a generous helping of neeps ‘n’ tatties (parsnip and potatoes). Just don’t ask what’s in haggis and you’ll be fine…

Since Poland joined the European Union there’s been a growing number of Polish moving to Edinburgh, which has led to a growth in great Polish restaurants selling hearty Eastern European food. One of the best is Bigos, on Leith Walk.

For something more traditional take a bus down the hill towards the harbour to the Kings Wark. This is a personal favourite, an old candle-lit pub that serves huge bowls of mussels and chips, washed down with a few pints. Lovely!

To fend off the cold, Edinburgh’s locals love a drink and a party (well that’s the excuse anyway). For good times go to the Cowgate area: the underbelly of the Old Town filled with bars and clubs, and at 3am, a thousand drunken Scotsmen spilling out into the street. Here you’ll find the Opium Bar, Bannermans and the Three Sisters pub, which are always full to the brim when the weekend rolls around.

Within stumbling distance are Cabaret Voltaire, a great underground live venue, the Bongo Club (full of cool cats and chilled beats) and the Hive, the appropriately named maze of subterranean rooms filled with loud, highly danceable music. Other favourites include the Jazz Bar, and Dropkick Murphy’s, an Irish themed bar which is often filled to raucous capacity.

Up the hill in Victoria Street is two popular clubs:  the always excellent Liquid Room, which frequently hosts big gigs, and the always seedy Espionage. From here it’s a short walk to the Grassmarket. This pretty, tree lined street is packed with bustling restaurants and pubs full of friendly characters, and is highly recommended. 

If you’re after more up market partying then put on your best dress (or suit) and head to George Street; the home of the beautiful people. Good clubs in the area include Ego or the Opal Lounge, where the lines at the door are always long, the drinks prices extortionate, and the dance floor always pumping.

For those with a sweet tooth (and a desire for a heart attack), finish your night off with a deep fried mars bar from Cafe Piccante (probably the only takeaway with a website). It really should be a once in a lifetime experience, if only for health reasons. The Scots aren’t known for their healthy food.

Another local end-of-the-night delicacy is chips ‘n’ brown sauce (attractively pronounced “broon sores”) which is a kind of watery gravy, and tastes as good as it sounds. The best place for this is the chippy next to ‘Whistlebinkies’, a live music venue just off the Royal Mile. Here you’ll witness a great cross section of society, especially on the weekend. It’s a great way to end an action-packed 24 hours in one of the great cities of Europe. Good luck!

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